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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.